How I Froze My Face, Lost My Snacks, and Still Loved the Everest High Pass Trek

The wind hit hard, like tiny needles across my face. My water bottle had turned to ice. My lips were cracked, my gloves were damp, and somewhere between Cho La and Renjo La, my precious stash of trail mix had mysteriously disappeared. And yet—there I was, grinning like a fool under three layers of wool.

The Everest High Passes Trek is not just a walk in the mountains. It’s a full-on Himalayan rollercoaster—beautiful, brutal, quiet, and loud all at once. It's the kind of journey where you lose your breath and your snacks, but find something deeper: clarity, courage, and sometimes, your sense of humor.

A Quick Look at the Trek

The Everest High Passes Trek is one of the most adventurous treks in Nepal. It connects the best of the Everest region while crossing three stunning mountain passes:

• Kongma La Pass (5,535 m / 18,159 ft)

• Cho La Pass (5,420 m / 17,782 ft)

• Renjo La Pass (5,360 m / 17,585 ft)

The route takes 18 to 21 days, covers about 160–170 kilometers (100–105 miles), and reaches altitudes where even your thoughts feel like they need extra oxygen. It's a challenge, no doubt. But it’s also deeply rewarding.

Not Just a Walk in the Park

The first few days felt easy enough—lush trails, swinging bridges, cozy tea houses. Spirits were high. So were my snack reserves. But as we climbed higher, the forests disappeared, and the real game began.

Crossing Kongma La was my first taste of what “high pass” really meant. We left before sunrise, headlamps glowing, frost crackling underfoot. The wind was wild. My nose turned into an icicle. I tried to smile for a photo and realized—half my face was frozen. Literally. No expression. Just one stiff cheek refusing to participate.

Snack Crisis at 5,000 Meters

Somewhere near Lobuche, I realized my snack bag was gone. Not just a few bites—the whole bag. Protein bars, peanuts, chocolate, gone like a dream.

I had carefully packed them in Kathmandu, labeling them “EMERGENCY ONLY.” And yes, I did treat every hill like an emergency. Apparently, so did my stomach.

I sulked for a good 10 minutes, dramatically refusing my guide’s boiled potato offering. But when you’re 5,000 meters up, everything tastes better. Even guilt-flavored boiled potato.

Cho La: Ice, Rocks, and Real Fear

If Kongma La was cold, Cho La was icy chaos. The trail turned into a slippery climb over a glacier. Spikes on our boots, poles in hand, we moved slowly and carefully.

One misstep, and you could slide straight down into a frozen valley. I looked ahead and saw our guide moving with ease, and behind me—my friend gasping, “Why do we do this to ourselves?”

Because the view.
Because the silence.
Because nothing else feels this real.

Renjo La and the Happy Cry

Renjo La came at the end of it all. I was tired. My legs were stiff. My clothes hadn’t smelled fresh in over a week. And yet, I couldn’t stop smiling.

As we climbed the final pass, the clouds broke and the Gokyo Lakes shimmered below. Everest stood proud in the distance, silent and snow-capped. The wind was strong, but something stronger filled my chest.

I let out a laugh, then a little cry. Not from pain, but from joy. Pure, simple joy.

It Wasn’t Always Pretty

There were things no one warns you about:

• The toilet situations at -10°C

• The unreal number of stairs

• The awkward sunburns on only half your face

• The yak traffic jams. (Yes, it’s a thing.)

But even when I was cranky, cold, and limping, I never once wanted to quit. Not even during that one time I dropped my toothbrush down a frozen toilet hole. (RIP.)

What I Took Home (Besides Blisters)

The Everest High Passes Trek reminded me what I’m made of.
Not strength or speed—but stubbornness, curiosity, and heart.

It showed me how small I am beside these peaks, and how that’s not a bad thing. Sometimes, we need to feel small to remember what truly matters.

It gave me a story. One with windburn, lost snacks, and frozen smiles—but a story I’ll never stop telling.

Thinking About Doing It?

Here’s my honest advice:

• Train before you go. Uphill isn’t a joke.

• Layer smart. Weather changes every hour.

• Go with a guide. Especially for Cho La.

• Pack backup snacks. Just… trust me.

• Be ready to feel everything. Cold. Tired. Grateful. Alive.

Would I do it again?
In a heartbeat.
But next time, I’m triple-wrapping my snacks.