The suede jacket is perhaps unique in the pantheon of men’s jackets due to its unique combination of rugged masculinity and sophistication. While most other jackets are one or the other, suede seems to effortlessly bridge the gap between the two. Some modern leather jackets can be very sophisticated but lack the edge of more traditional styles, while the unique tactility of suede gives it a rugged feel, no matter how refined the silhouette.

Think Paul Newman in a tan suede jacket in The Towering Inferno (1974), Dennis Hopper in Easy Rider, Jon Voight in Midnight Cowboy, or more recently Daniel Craig in a lightweight tan suede blouse in Spectre, along with a black suede café racer. So far, so masculine.

What the suede jacket lacks in its wet-weather propensity, it more than makes up for in textural grace and luxury. Today, all the top luxury jacket brands release suede versions every year, and some brands even specialize in the genre.

What is suede?

Simply put, suede is the inside of a tanned animal hide, worn so that the shaggy side is the outside. But before it can be made into a jacket, the hide must be split, otherwise it will be too heavy. Splitting is simply the process of removing the top portion of the hide, resulting in a much lighter fabric that is much easier to work with.

Suede is typically made from the skins of sheep, calves, goats, deer and pigs, as their hides are naturally thinner than cowskin, but the latter is perfectly acceptable if used to create a rougher, more durable style.

By removing the aforementioned top skin, suede is much more permeable than leather, making it a nightmare in wet weather and easily stained. This is why suede fans usually have a premium weather subscription.

Main types of suede jackets

Blouson

The most common silhouette of men's suede jackets can be conventionally called a "blouson", although there are many deviations in styles within this broad genre.

Many suede blouses harken back to the early flight jackets of the 1940s and 1950s. They are cropped at the waist, have a turn-down collar, and feature two patch pockets, or side pockets in more minimalist styles.

Other styles include suede versions of trucker jackets with sheared leather collars and chest pockets, classic bombers with ribbed collars and hemlines, and the typical café racer jacket with a short stand-up collar.

Long suede jackets don't seem to stand the test of time very well, so stick to a cropped blouson style for the most modern aesthetic.

Shirt-jacket

The silhouette, which was considered something of a 70s silhouette, has definitely made a comeback, with many brands reviving the shirt jacket through the lens of modern workwear. Lightweight suede is the perfect option for this type of layering, bringing texture and luxury to everyday wear.

Look for styles with two or four pockets and button closures, as these are the most versatile. However, if you look hard enough, you can also find belted styles in the style of traditional field jackets, which can look very striking.

Blazer

Although not considered outerwear per se, the blazer is often seen in some luxury tailoring brands and is made from soft, lightweight sheepskin.

For those who prefer to wear separates rather than suits, this is a great investment piece for your fall wardrobe, adding texture and tactility in abundance.

What to look for when buying a suede jacket

Type and quality of suede

Not all suede is created equal, so you need to know what to look for, as it's easy for brands to slap an inflated price tag on a suede jacket. First of all, look for fabrics with the smoothest hairs, which are invariably found on young animals. The longer or stiffer the textured hairs on the surface, the older the animal.

Cow suede and some deerskins will be rougher and more grainy than calf or lambskin, the latter of which is considered the pinnacle of suede. Suede fabrics from older animals can be a bonus depending on the type of jacket and how you plan to wear it - for example, you'll want a more durable biker suede if you'll be using it on your bike.

Pigskin is another option that is prized for its thickness, durability, and coarse nap. While it certainly wouldn’t work for a lightweight blouson or shirt jacket, it can be a great option for a thick, fleece-lined flight jacket.

Goatskin is often used as a cheaper alternative to sheepskin and calfskin.

A few words about artificial suede

With sustainability becoming increasingly important in the fashion industry, some brands believe that going fur-free is a step in the right direction, but unfortunately, they are only making the problem worse.

Faux suede is made from polyester microfibers, and therefore has better water-repellent and stain-resistant properties than real suede. But that's where the benefits end. These microfibers are not biodegradable and are definitely not eco-friendly. Instead, opt for real hides and wear them until they fall apart. With proper care, this can last for decades.

Jacket lining

As with suits, the lining of suede jackets can vary greatly, with cheaper models using thin synthetic linings (which are not very breathable) and more expensive ones using silk, cotton, and insulated linings such as sheared leather.

Cotton and polyester blends are quite common. Just make sure that the blend leans more towards cotton, as synthetic fibers prevent proper air circulation through the hide.

Lightning

It may seem like a minor detail, but the type of zipper used is often an indicator of the overall quality of a jacket.

The most common zippers are YKK, while RiRi zippers are shinier, stronger, and very smooth. They are also about 10 times more expensive, so if a designer has decided to spend the extra money, it's usually a good sign.